I want assurance that a pattern will
fit me before I start sewing.
• I compare the pattern to a finished garment.
• I pin the tissue pattern together and try on
to check fit.
• I make a mock up in Pellon or felt.
• I refer to the FINISHED SIZE CHART given
in
Rag Merchant pattern instructions.
To your own measurements add the amount of ease you
like and compare the combined total with the FINISHED
SIZE measurements given and select size to sew accordingly.
I like to make the most of every sewing hour. In
other words, I'll do most anything to avoid handwork!
• Pins can be your best friend. Choose them wisely.
Use them well.
• Pin smart! Pin tissue paper patterns into corners,
perpendicular to straight sides.
• Use basting spray to do the work of many pins.
Use sparingly; test on fabric first.
• If I absolutely have to baste, I use silk thread.
Fine weight silk thread makes only tiny holes in your
fabric and it is easy to remove.
I use guaranteed foolproof methods for making 1/4
in. seams.
• I mark my machine as I please! Stack up several
layers of drafting tape. Then trim the stack with a
rotary cutter and position it on machine as a raised
seam guide.
• I'll use commercially available adhesive moleskin
(like Dr. Scholl's) to make a seam guide when teaching
beginners. (Trim a width with rotary cutter.)
• I use a 1/4 in. foot or Quilt Wizard for a perfect
1/4 in. seam.
I use sewing tricks that make you think I've spent hours
slaving over a hot machine.
• I cut out more than one garment at a time using
rotary cutter techniques.
• I don't worry about removing tissue seam allowances
when I cut out a garment. Cutting through tissue actually
adds to accuracy.
• When I can't use a rotary cutter, I use shears
for cutting. Shears have bent handles (if they have
straight handles they are scissors) and are easy to
manipulate around curves.
• I make tiny clips into seam allowances (instead
of cutting out around notches) to mark matching points.
Most seam finishes later conceal tiny clips.
• I package (zip lock bag/ plastic box) everything
I need for one project in one container. When I have
a few minutes to sew, I don't have to spend time hunting
for thread or findings.
• I use spray starch to control slippery, drapery
fabrics. After construction is completed, the spray
starch washes out.
• I eliminate facings and use narrow bias trim
to make a stable edge that's finished as I sew.
• I use a twin needle (double needle) sewing to
mimic pin tucks. If you have a zigzag machine you can
use this specialty needle. (Read on for more twin needle
information.)
I use tape for many purposes.
Drafting tape is a dream come true -
it doesn't leave residue, and it doesn't stick to paper
forever. Use it instead of masking tape. (Find drafting
tape at art supply stores or at architectural/blueline
supply stores. It looks like masking tape; check the
label carefully.)
• Use drafting tape to mark fabric pieces as you
cut.
• Use drafting tape to remove threads from projects
and clothes and to pick up thread ends after ripping.
• Use drafting tape to remove fuzzards and threads
from your sewing clothes.
• Use drafting tape to repair pattern tears and
as a temporary hold for fabric pieces.
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